Vatnahalsen Hotell

Skjolden

Sognefjellet & Tindevegen

At the head of Lustrafjorden the air still smells of salt and meltwater, and the road ahead rises toward a pass that Northern Europe treats as its roof. Two hors catégorie climbs — Sognefjellet and Tindevegen — ask for the same day, and neither offers much kindness between them.